Topographical description of County Leix/Laois
QUEEN'S County, an inland county of the
province of Leinster, bounded on the east by the counties of Kildare and
Carlow, on the north by the King's county, on the west by the same and
Tipperary county, and on the south by the counties of Kilkenny and Carlow.
It extends from 52? 46' to 58? 10' (N Lat.), and from 6? 56' to 7? 48' (W.
Lon.); and comprises an area, according to the Ordnance survey, of 396,810
acres, of which 335,838 are cultivated land, and 60,972 are unprofitable
mountain and bog. The population, in 1821, amounted to 134,275; and in
1831, to 145,851.
The slight
notices of Ptolmey respecting the interior of Ireland lead to the inference that
this county was inhabited by the Briganties; but Whitaker asserts that
the Scoli were the first settlers in it. Afterwards it was
divided into Leix, which comprehended all that part of the county
contained within the river Barrow to the north and east, the Nore to the south,
and the Slieve Bloom mountains to the west; and Ossory, which included
the remainder. So early as the middle of the third century the latter of
these divisions, with parts of the adjoining counties, was ranked as a kingdom,
and annexed by Conary, King of Ireland, to his native dominion of Munster,
instead of being, as formerly, attached to Leinster. Subsequent passages
of history prove it to have been a district of considerable importance.
When Malachy was forming a confederacy of all the native princes against the
Danes, the king of Ossory was specially required to conclude a peace with the
people of the northern half of the island, in order that all should be at
liberty to act against the common enemy; and in the time of Carmac Mac Culinan
he had the command of the first division of that monarch's army in his unjust
and unfortunate invasion of Leinster, and fell in the battle of Maghailbe, in
which Cormac himself was slain. Uis dominions were afterwards disposed of
by Flan, King of Ireland. Both Leix and Ossory were visited by St. Patrick
in his peregrinations through the island to establish the Christian religion.
In the war waged by Roderic O'Conor, King of Ireland, against Dermod Mac
Murrough, King of Leinster, which led to the invasion under Strongbow, the king
of Ossory was one of the princes who were specially summoned by the former of
those potentates. The district was then subject to the Mac Gillypatricks
or Fitzpatricks, who acted with so much vigour against Mac Murrough that, when
the English had partially established themselves in the country, Mac Murrough
prevailed on them to join him in an invasion of Ossory, which they ravaged,
notwithstanding the gallant resistance made by Donald Fitzpatrick, then king.
Though defeated, this toparch persevered in his determination not to treat with
Mac Murrough, and was again defeated and forced to seek refuge in Tipperary.
He afterwards formed an alliance with Maurice Prendergast, who upon some offence
received from the king of Leinster, had quitted the service of that monarch, and
both invaded the neighbouring territory of Leix, which they ravaged with little
opposition, until O'More, then dynast of it, was compelled to apply to Mac
Murrough, by whom, aided by the English, he was quickly reinstated.
Prendergast and Donald subsequently quarrelled, and the former, after skilfully
extricating himself from an ambuscade laid for him by the other, retired with
followers to safety into Wales. Donald, though twice fefeated, as not
subdued. The position of his territory on the confines of Munster and
Leinster afforded him opportunities of intercepting the communications between
Waterford and Dublin, of which he availed himself so effectually, that a league
was formed against him by Strongbow (who on Dermod's death succeeded to the
kingdom of Leinster) and O'Brien, King of Limerick. But the appeal to arms
was prevented by a treaty, in effecting which Maurice Prendergast, who had
returned to Ireland, rendered his old ally good service. From this time
Donald continued faithfully attached to his new friends. His territory was
the place of renderzvous for their army when it was preparing to march against
Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick, who had now declared against the English; and
he proved his adherence still further by guiding the army through the woods till
it encamped before Limerick. At this time the whole of the district no
forming the Queen's county was known by the name of Glenmaliere and Leix; the
latter divison was made a county platine; and on the division of the immense
possessions of William, Earl Marshal, between his five daughters, it was
allotted to the youngest, who had married William de Braosa, lord of Brecknock.
Their daughter Maud married Roger Mortimer, lord of Wigmore, and from this
connection the imperial house of Austria, and the royal families of Great
Britain, France, Prussia, Denmark, Holland, Sardinia, and Saxony, derive their
descent. Mortimer preferring to reside on his English estates, employed
one of the O'Mores to defend and manage his Irish property, who within twenty
years after, became so powerful that he held it at his own and become one of the
most turbulent opponents of the English settlers in that part of the pale.
So fuly was his authority recognised as lord of the district, that he was
summoned by the English government to oppose Bruce and the Scotch. For two
centuries after, the district was the seat of an almost incessant war between
the O'Mores and the English, which was carried on without any occurrence of much
historical importance on either side. During the same period the Mac
Gillypatricks, or Fitzpatricks, maintained their independence in Ossary, but
generally adhered to the English. In the 5th year of Mary, both districts
were reduced to shire ground, and incorporated under the name of the Queen's
county, the assize town being named Marysborough, in honour of the Queen.
But his new arrangement did not immediately tranquillize the country. At
the close of the reign of Elizabeth, Owen MacRory O'More was so powerful that
Sir George Carew, president of Munster, accompanied by the Earls of Thomond and
Ormonde, was induced to hold a parley with him, to bring him back to his
allegiance, in which they were entrapped in an ambuscade, and the Earl of
Ormonde made prisoner, and detained till he paid a ransom of ?3000. The
daring insurgent himself was shortly after killed in a skirmish with Lord
Mountjoy; and the followers of the O'Mores were driven into the counties of Cork
and Kerry, then nearly depopulated. At this juncture many English
families, to who grants of the land thus forfeited had been made, settled here.
Seven of them, whose founders were most influential in securing the new
settlements, acquired the names of the Seven Tribes. The families so
called were those of Cosby, Barrington, Hartpole, Bowen, Ruish, Hetherington,
and Hovenden or Ovington, of whom the first only has retained its possession,
that of Barrington, still extant, has alienated its property; all the rest are
extinct in the male line. In the reign of Chas. I., large grants of land
were made to Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, now forming the extensive manor of
Villiers, which has descended through the female line to the present Duke.
In the same reign, and during the unsettled period of the Commonwealth, the
families of Pigott, Coote, Prior, Parnell, and Pole settled here; those of Vesey,
Dawson, Staples, Burrows, and Johnson, obtained lands in it after the
Revolution. The county had its full share of the calamities of the civil
war in 1641, at the beginning of which the insurgents secured Marysborough,
Dunamase and other places of strength. The Earl of Ormonde arriving at
Athy from Dublin, detached parties for their relief; on his retreat the whole of
the county submitted to General Preston, but was forced again to submit to the
royal arms. In 1646, Owen Roe O'Nial seized upon several forts in it.
In 1650, Cromwell's forces entered the county and met with much resistance; in
the course of the struggle most of its fortresses were dismantled by his
generals, Hewson and Reynolds. During the Revolution of 1699, a signal
victory was gained by the troops of William at a noted togher or bog-pass near
Cappard, where they defeated a much superior number of the Irish. After
the termination of the war, the country was so harassed by the ravages of the
raparees that the resident gentlemen applied to King William to have a force of
infantry and dragoons quartered in it, and specified the castle of Lea as one of
the principal stations for their reception.
The county is partly in the diocese of
Killaloe, partly in those of Dublin and Glendalough, partly in that of
Kildare, but chiefly in those of Ossory and Leighlin. For purposes of
civil jurisdiction it is divided into the baronies of Ballyadams, Cullinagh,
Maryborough East, Maryborough West, Portnehinch, Sheyemargue, Stradbally,
Tinnehinch, and Upper Ossory. It contains the greater part of the
borough and market-town of Portarlington; the disfranchised borough, market,
and assize town of Maryborough; the ancient corporate and market and
post-town of Ballinakill; the market and post-towns of Mountmellick,
Mountrath, Stradbally, and Abbeyleix; the port-towns of Burros-in-Ossory,
Rathdowney, Bellybrittas, Clonaslee, and Ballyroan; and the suburb of the
borough of Carlow called Graigue; the largest villages are those of
Ballylinan, Castletown, Emo, Newtown and Arles. It sent eight members
to the Irish parliament, two for the county at large, and two for each of
the boroughs of Portarlington, Maryborough, and Ballinakill. Since the
Union it has been represented by three members, two for the county, and one
for Portarlington; the election for the county takes place at Maryborough.
The constituency, as registered up to Feb. 1st, 1836, consisted of 405 ?50,
270 ?20, and 1210 ?10, freeholders; 5 ?50, 16 ?20, and 97 ?10, leaseholders;
26 ?50, and 72 ?20, rent-chargers; and 37 clergymen of ?50, in right of
their respective incumbencies, 3 of ?20, and 2 of ?10; making a total of
2143 registered voters. Queen's county is included in the Home
Circuit; the assizes are held a Maryborough; and general sessions of the
peace at Maryborough, Mountmellick, Mountrath, Stradbally, Burres-in-Ossory,
and Abbeyleix, twice in the year at each of these places. The county
gaol is at Maryborough, and there are bridewells in Burros-in-Ossory,
Stradbally, and Abbeyleix. The local government is vested in a
lieutenant, 18 deputy-lieutenants, and 82 other magistrates; besides whom
there are the usual county officers, including four coroners. There
are 42 stations of the constabulary police, having a force of a
sub-inspector, 9 chief officers, 45 sub-constables, 291 men and 15 horses;
besides which there are three stations of the peace preservation police.
The amount of the Grand Jury presentments, in 1835, was ?21,575. 15. 7., of
which ?293. 16. 0. was for the roads, bridges &c., of the county at large;
?4124. 16. 0?. for those of the baronies; ?9835. 15. 0?. for public
buildings, charities, officer's salaries, and incidents; ?6600. 8. 2. for
the police; and ?541. 0. 4. for the repayment of advances made by
Government. The district lunatic asylum for the Queen's and King's
counties, Westmeath, and Longford, is at Maryborough; as is also the county
infirmary, and there are dispensaries at Abbeyleix, Ballybrittas,
Ballymoyler, Ballinakill, Clondonagh, Errill, Mountrath, Mountmellick,
Newtown, Coleraine, Portarlington, Rathdowney, Stradbally, Swan,
Ballickmoyler, Burros-in-Ossory, and Clonasice, which are supported by Grand
Jury presentments and private subscriptions, in the proportion of one third
of the former to two-thirds of the latter. In the military
arrangements it is included in the eastern district, and contains one
barrack for infantry at Maryborough, constructed for the reception of 61 non
commissioned officers and men.
The surface of the county is generally
either flat or gently undulating with small hills, exhibiting a pleasing
variety rather than picturesques effect. The inequality is mostly
caused by the escars, ridges of which traverse the county in several parts;
they are mostly formed of rounded nodules of limestone, calcorcous
sandstone, and coal shale, the parent rocks of which are found in the county
or close to its confines. The principal of these escars, called the
Ridge, rises near Athlone and thence proceeding across the King's county,
enters the Queen's at Mountmellick and proceeds to Rathleague through the
extremity of Maryborough, forming in this county an unbroken line about 6
miles long, varying i height from 12 to 45 feet, being enerally broad at the
base and narrowing upwards to the width of a few feet; to the north of
Maryborough a road is carried along its summit; south of the town it is
planted. Near the same place a very copious spring bursts from it,
called the Blessed well of Maryborough, and much resorted to by the
peasantry, who preform devotional ceremonies, called stations, round it.
Beyond Rathleague the escars maintain a south-eastern course, and are broken
and interrupted, but they soon resume a regular ridge-like form and divide
into two branches, one southwards to the Doon of Clonoke, the other
eastwards to Stradbally, again forming an unbroken line of more than 6
miles. The tract extending from Urlingford, in Kilkenny county, to
Dawson's Grove near Monastereven, on the confines of Kildare, is the most
improved of any in Leinster. It is generally well planted, not in
isolated patches close to the mansion-houses, but over the whole face of the
landscape, so as to give it much the appearance of an English woodland
scene. The Dysart hills, which are situated in this rich tract of
country, add much to its variety and beauty; they are wholly composed of
limestone, and their direction is north and south between the baronies of
Maryborough, Stradbally, and Cullinagh, not forming a continuous elevation,
but in most cases standing singly; the rock of Dunamase and the Doon of
Clopoke are two of the most striking of them. To the west the land
rises into the lofty range of the Slieve-Bloom mountains, which form a
marked line of division between this and the King's county; their summit is
called "the Height of Ireland," from a popular opinion that it is the most
elevated point in the Island; near it is the Pass of Glandine, a narrow
defile, impassable for carriages, and forming the only mountain
communication between the King's and Queen's counties. The northern
side of the mountains of this range is very fertile, while the southern,
though more exposed to the genial influence of the sun, is nearly barren and
mostly covered with heath. Towards the southern boundary of the county
the ground rises into the Slievemarigue hills, which separate it from
kilkenny. The only lake is that of Lough Annagh called also Lough
Duff, on the border of the King's county, to which one-half of it is
considered to belong.
The soil, which rests chiefly on a
substratum of limestone, varies from a stiff clayey loam, well adapted to
the growth of wheat, to a light sand, which, however, produces good barley,
turnips and potatoes. In the Slieve-Bloom mountains the surface
inclines to a black, and in some parts, a yellow clay, of unequal depth,
covering a mouldering rock or gritty gravel; its general character is
spongy, wet, boggy even where highest, and very rocky. The Dysart
hills are fertile to thier summits, which, thugh too steep for the plough,
afford reich pasturage for sheep. The soil of the southern barony of
Cullinagh is a gravelly silicious clay towards the mountains; in the central
parts it is a rich loam, and in the south, light and sand; the largest
bullocks in the county are fattened on the rich pastures in the low landa.
In the northern barony of Portnehinch the soil is light and unproductive,
unless in some favored spots where a persavering course of judicious
cultivation has improved its character. Bogs are frequent in every
part, chiefly about Maryborough; they may all be considered as branches of
the great central bog of Allen. The turf from them yields both white
and red ashes; that affording the latter is most esteemed either for manure
or fuel. In some places are large tracts of marshy land called callows,
which are inundated during winter but in summer afford excellent pasturage.
The land on the banks of the Barrow is alluvial and forms rich and valuable
meadows. The average size of farms, particularly in the tillage
districts, is not more than from 12 to 14 acres; some noblemen and landed
proprietors hold large tracts of land in their own hands, the superior
cultivation of which is very effective as a leading example towards the
general improvement of agriculture in the county. Wheat is now
generally grown even in the mountain districts; barley is also extensively
cultivated; potatoes and oats form an essential part of the rotation system.
Green crops are often seen, particularly turnips, of which the Swedish is
most esteemed; rape an vetches are extensively raised; clover is to be seen
everywhere; flax is planted only in small quantities for domestic
consumption. The implements and carriages employed in rural economy
are generally of the most improved description; both bullocks and horses are
used in ploughing, generally in pairs; where the soil is very deep and
stiff, two pairs of the latter are sometimes put in the same team. The
manures are, lime and limestone gravel, here called corn gravel, procured
with little labour or expense, and composts from the farm yard. The
common fence is of wite thorn planted on ditches well constructed but too
often subsequently neglected; stone walls are also raised for the same
purpose, particularly for the demesnes of the nobility and gentry. All
the improved breeds of English cattle have been introduced into the county.
The most esteemed dairy cows are a cross between the Durham and native
breed, as they are good milkers, of large size and easily fattened.
Dairies are numerous and productive; cheese is made in small quantities; but
butter, which is of very good quality, is the chief produce. Pigs are
reared in very great numbers; no farm house is without them, but the breed
is inferior to that in the southern counties; goats are also kept by all the
small farmers and cottiers. The horses are a light, small-boned,
active race, good for the saddle but not well fitted for heavy agricultural
labour.
A great part of the county, particularly
the mountainous districts to the north-west, was once covered with timber,
in proof of which it may be stated that in the neighbourhood of Lough Annagh,
oak, fir and yew trees are found in numbers lying a few feet below the
surface, some of the roots adhering to the trunks and others remaining in
their original position, the trunks having been burnt off and the charred
cinder adhering in all its freshness to both trunk and root; large trunks
and roots of trees are also perceptible in the lake, with their timber sound
and remarkably tough. In the reign of Elizabeth, Capt. Leigh received
the thanks of that queen for having valiantly led the English cavalry from
Birr to Athy, through the woods and forests of Oregan. The country has
since been entirely cleared of its old woods; but new plantations have
sprung up in most parts. The farm-houses, like the farms, are general
small; many have neat gardens and orchards, which, with the hedgerow trees,
give them the appearance of much rural comfort. Draining and
irrigation are but little attended to.
The principal portion of the county
belongs to the great floetz limestone field, which forms the base of the
greater part of the level coutnry of Ireland; the Slieve-Bloom mountains in
the north-west, are of the sandstone formation, and at the Slievemargue in
the south-east, the coal formation commences. The limestone field
abounds with oscars, already noticed. The coal formation commences
near Timahoe, and extends east and south-east to the Barrow, and southwards
almost to the Nore. It forms the northern extremity of the Kilkenny
field, from which it is separated only by a small river, and the coal is in
every respect similiar in each part; the portion included in the Queen's
county extends about 3 miles by 2. The strata range as in Kilkenny,
but the dip being to the west, the pits on this side are deeper. There
are five collieries at work; namely, Newtown, Wolf Hill, Domuane, Poulakele
and Moydeberg; those of Bushes and Tollerton, though very valuable, are not
wrought at present. The pits at Newtown are from 45 to 48 yards deep,
all those around Moydehegh are from 61 to 64 yards. The coal at
Newtown and Doonane is equal to the best Kilkenny coal, and sells at 20s.
per ton at the pits; that of the other collieries, though somewhat inferior,
never sinks below the price of 17s. per ton. Hence the poor people,
even in the immediate vicinity of the pits, cannot afford to use it, and it
is entirely pruchased by maltsters, brewers, distillers and smiths, by whom
it is much sought after, inasmuch as, being almost pure carbon, without any
admixture of bitumen, it requires no preliminary preparation even for
malting purposes; it is conveyed to all the surrounding counties chiefly in
one-horse carts. In the summer of 1836, 64 pits were at full work, for
unwatering which five steam engins were employed, but the coal is mostly
raised by horses. The works furnished employment to 700 men, and the
value of the coal raised it estimated at upwards of ?78,000 per ann.
Yet, notwithstanding these advantages, the workmen, from their irregular and
inconsiderate habits, are miserably poor; and the district is frequently
disturbed by broils and tumults, so that police stations are thickly
distributed throughout this portion of the county. Iron ore shews
itself in some parts, and mines were wrought until the failure of the supply
of timber for fuel caused them to be relinquished; a branch of the
iron-manufacture which had been successfully carried on at Mountrath, when
timber was plentiful, has been discontinued for the same reason.
Cooper and manganese have also been found. Slate quarries have
been opened at Roundwood, in Offerlane, and at Cappard. Near
Mountmellick are quarries of soft silicious sandstone, which is wrought into
chimney-pieces and hearth-stones that are in great demand. Ochre,
fullers' earth, and potters' clay are met with. Potteries have been
long established in the neighbourhood of Mountmellick, in which large
quantities of tiles, crocks, and garden pots are made.
The other manufactures are confined to
cottons, flannels, friezes and stuffs of a coarse durable kind for the
clothing of the peasantry. Much broad cloth was woven in Mountmellick
for the Dublin market, and a broad stuff called "Durants" was also
manufactured there and at Maryborough; but the trade has long declined.
The same observation is applicable to serges, the urse of which has been in
a great measure superseded by that of cotton cloth. Cotton factories
were erected at Cullinagh, Abbeyleix, and on teh Barrow near Athy, but all
failed; the only one at present in the county is at Mountrath. In
Mountmellick are an iron-foundry and extensive breweries, a distillery, and
tanneries. At Donoughmore is a very extensive starch-manufactory, the
produce of which is almost exclusively sent to Dublin. Flour-mills at
Mountmellick, Coleraine, Maryborough, Castletown, Rathdowney, Donoughmore,
Abbeyleix and Stradbally, besides several in other parts, are each capable
of manufacturing 12,000 barrels of flour annually.
The Nore is the only river of any
magnitude that passes through the country; it rises in the Slieve-Bloom
mountains and enters Kilkenny near Durrow, receiving in this part of its
course the Tonnet with its branch stream the Dolour, the Old Forge river,
the Cloncoose with its branches the Cromoge and Corbally, the Trumry, the
Colt, and the Erkin or Erkenny. The Barrow, which rises in the same
mountain range, and forms the northern and part of the eastern boundary of
the county, receives the Blackwater, the Trihogue, and the Owenass or Onas;
it is naviagable for barges from Thy downwards, and quits the county for
that of Carlow at Clogbgrennan. The Grand Canal enters the country at
Clogbeen near Monasteroven, and is carried along near its eastern boundary
for eight miles to Blackford, where it re-enters the county of Kildare, and
shortly after communicates with the Barrow at Athy. A branch has been
carried from Monastcreven by Portarlington to Mountmellick. The roads
are numerous throughout every part of the county; in general they are well
laid out and kept in good order. The intended railway from Dublin to
Kilkenny is to cross the Barrow from Kildare at Ardree below Athy, and will
proceed by Milford, Grange, Shruel, and Graigue to Cloghgrennan, and proceed
thence by Leighlin-Bridge to the city of Kilkenny.
Relies of antiquity of every description
known in Ireland are to be found here. There is a pillar tower nearly
perfect at Timahoe, in a valley near the ruins of a monastic building.
On Kyle hill, about two miles from Burrow-in-Ossory, is a rude seat of
stone, called by the common people the Fairy Chair, which is supposed to
have been an ancient judgment-seat of the Brehons. Near the
south-western verge of the county is an ancient Irish fortress, called
Baunaghra or "Kay's Strength," little known on account of its retired
situation on the top of a high hill surrounded by a deep circular fosse with
a mound or wall on the summit. The other principal relies are
described under the heads of the parishes in which they are situated.
Monastic institutions, of a very early date, were numerous, but most of them
have so completely fallen into decay, that even their site cannot now be
ascertained. The ruins of Aghahoe, whither the seat of the see of
Ossory was removed from its original situation at Salger, in the King's
county, until its final removal to Kilkenny, still exist in such a state of
preservation as to afford some idea of the extent and character of the
buildings. The ruins of Aghmacart are also visible, as are traces of
those of killedelig, Killermogh, Mundrehid or Disert-Chailin, and
Temnpul-na-Ceilliagh-dubh, near Aghaloe. The churches of Dysartenus
and Killabane have been preserved as parish churches. The site of the
monastery of Leix is known only by the existence of the town of Abbeyleix -
that of Timahoe is conjectured, with much probability, from the round tower
there, Rostuire was near the Slieve-Bloom mountains; Stradbally or
Monanhealing stood near the town of Stradbally; Teagh-Schotin and Slatey
were in Slievermargue., the sites of Cluainchacin, Cluainianturchir, Disert
Fulartheigh, Disert Odrain, Kilfoelain, and Leamchuill or Lahoil, are wholly
unknown. Among the remains of military antiquities is the rock of
Dunamase, described in the account of the parish of Dysartenos, Lea castle,
on the Barrow, eight miles from Dunamase, is supposed to have been built
about the same period, its architecture much resembling that of the other,
and it was still further secured by its natural position, being protected on
one side by the Barrow, and on the other by a deep morass; it was incapable,
however, of holding out against Cromwell, by who it was taken and destroyed.
The castles of Shean, Moret, Ballymanus, and five others in the same part of
the county, were built by Lord Mortimer, as posts of defence for the English
tenants whom he endeavoured to settle on his estates. Shean or Sim
castle was built on a conical hill; though not of great extent, it was a
place of considerable strength, but not a vestige of it is now in existence.
Burrow-in-Ossory was a strong fort on the Nore, belonging to the
Fitzpatricks, and the great pass to Munster; it was the scene of a very
bloody engagement in the war of 1641. Ballygigin, Castletown,
Watercastel, and Castlefleming, with several others, belonged to branches of
the same family. Shanbogh, in the same district, was a castellated
mansion, which served as a protection against the rapparees who infested the
deep woods with which this part of Ireland was then covered.
Grantstown, Ballagh, Clonbyrne, Gortneclay, Coolkerry, and Kilbreedy are in
the same barony. Castlecuff in Tinnehinch, built about 1641, by Sir
Charles Coote, celebrated for his military prowess, is a very large ruin; he
also built the castle of Ruish-hall. The castles of Clara, Ballinakill,
Coolamons, Tinnehinch and Castlebrack, are in the same district; the
last-names contains some subterraneous apartments, which were opened and
partially explored, but presenting nothing more than other small caves, and
the air being very foul, no attempt was made to penetrate to the extremity
of any of them. The rains of an old castle at Ballyadams, which gives
name to the barony, are still visible; another is to be seen at Grange,
Shrule castle was in the south-western extremity of the county, near the
town of Carlow. The entrance into the ruins of Cloghgrennan castle
separated the county of Carlow from the Queen's county. The remains of
Rathaspeck castle were applied to the building of the neighbouring parish
church. A conical heap of stones on the summit of a very lofty hill,
near the boundary of Stradbally barony, is known by the name of Cobler's
castle. The modern mansions of the nobility and gentry are noticed
under the heads of their respective parishes.
The middle classes of the gentry pay much
attention to the improvement and embellishment on their grounds; their
dwelling-houses are handsome and convenient, with suitable offices.
The habitations of the peasantry, though in many parts superior to those of
the neighbouring counties, are very deficient in appearance or in internal
comfort. Abbeyleix and Castletown are exceptions, much attention being
paid to the houses there; in the baronies of Maryborough and Upper Ossory
they are comfortable, but in the northern barony of Tinnehinch they are very
poor, being little better than hovels, and in the neighbourhood of the
collieries still worse. A plot of ground of from half an acre to an
acre is generally attached to the peasant's hut, as a potato garden, for
which he pays in labour from 20s. to 50s. rent. The fuel throughout
the entire county is turf, the coal being exclusively used for manufacturing
purposes; wood was formerly so abundant, that a clause was introduced into
many old leases binding the tenant to use no other kind of fuel; and a the
present time the ancient custom of dues and services is inserted in many
leases. A strong attachment of old customs is pointed out as one the
striking characteristics of the peasantry; but that this adherence is caused
by prejudice alone is proved by their adoption of improved practices of
agriculture, when the success of others had ultimately convinced them
of their superior advantages. Another fact, illustrative of this
observation, is that the peasantry in all parts, even in the mountainous
districts, speak English fluently, the Irish being never heard except with
some of the very old people. The custom of frequenting wells for
devotional purposes is declining fast. Of the chalybeate springs the
most remarkable are those at Cappard, Killeshin, Mountmellick, and
Portarlington; the first-names is the strongest, but none of them are in
much repute for their sanative qualities beyond their own immediate
neighbourhood. There is a very singular artificial curiousity, called
the Cut of Killehin, about three miles from Carlow, on the road to the
collieries. It is a pass through a lofty hill above half a mile long,
and from 10 to 40 feet deep according to the rise of the ground, but not
more than four feet four inches wide, cut through the solid rock, so that
cars have barely room to pass along it. The constant flow of water and
the friction of the carriage wheels have occasioned this extraordinary
excavation. The carrier, as he approached the gap at either end,
shouted loudly, and the sound was easily conveyed to the other extremity
through the cavity. Should the cars have met within the cut, the
driver of the empty car was bound to beck out, a task of no small difficulty
along this narrow and ill-constructed road. A new road has been
opened, which has obviated the necessity of making use of this pass.
contiguous to this cut are the ruins of Killeshin church, with an antique
and highly ornamented entrance archway, surrounded by an inscription in
Saxon characters, now illegible. Adjoining the church was a rath with
a deep fosse. This place was remarkable for having one been the chief
town in the county, thought not a stone building of it is now standing
except the ruins just mentioned. Topographical Dictionary
of Ireland by Samuel Lewis, 1837
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