CLODAGH MURPHY  reminisces

By the Banks of the Barrow

SOME forgotten poet loved to wander,

"By the banks of the Barrow, broad, smiling and fair,

Lightly brushed by the gentle caress of the air."

 Did he ever reflect, I often wonder, on what sights and people those same quiet waters must have seen down through the ages.

To begin at the myth-shrouded beginning, there was once a Queen named Beirbe. Her son Metschi had three serpents in his heart. These were removed by a Magician, who, having killed and burned them, threw the ashes into the river. The water boiled and destroyed every living creature in its depths. Hence the word Barrow (in Irish Bearbo) from beirbim, I boil.

SOME EARLY EVENTS

In 458 A.D., Ath Dara, identified with Maganey, resounded with battle-cries. At this ford on the river, King Laoghaire, the Tara Monarch, waging war on Leinster to collect a tribute, met with a crushing defeat and was taken prisoner.

At the beginning of the seventh century, a golden period in Irish history, St. Moling must have been a familiar figure on the river banks, for it was then that he founded the famous monastery at Rosbioc, now called St. Mullins or Tig Molins. A century later, in 824, A.D., to be exact, the Danes in their dragon-headed boats sailed up the Barrow, with their red and white eagle banners sweeping the sky, to plunder this religious establishment.

In the middle of the seventeenth century, at the time of the Confederation and Cromwellian wars, Carlow Castle was the scene of many attacks and counter-attacks. Several times it was besieged and almost subdued, especially in 1642 when the attackers, however, were hindered by an abnormally high and prolonged flood in the river. Eventually the proud Castle surrendered on terms to Cromwell's soldiers and its garrison marched away across the bridge into Leix in good order.

Dr. Thomas Molyneux, whose brother William was the author of "A Case For Ireland Stated," describes a tour which he made in 1709.

Leaving Dublin, he arrived five hours later in Naas, where he spent the night. The following day he crossed the Barrow "at a very deep ford at Shroule" and journeyed a further half-mile to "Cousin Best's at Knockbeg."

HAND IN HAND

Many a lover and his lass wandered along the Barrow track in days gone by just as they still do to-day. Had you frequented the stretch to Clogrennan in the 1840s you would surely have met Thomas Edwards and Lucy Marchant walking hand-in-hand. One of these was certainly a disappointing outing for Thomas as very much to his regret they had company and as he tells us—"I asked her to lean on my arm ; she consented but if she did one of the others lent upon hers and thus I could not address any but the most commonplace remarks to her."In his three-hundred-page Journal, Thomas not only gives us a full description of this affair but treats of his life as Coach Agent to Joseph Fishbourne. His entries are addressed from the "Carlow Coach Office." This was the "Fair Traveller" depot at No. 9 Dublin Street. Our only regret is that he stopped keeping the Journal in 1847, a year before he finally married his Lucy.

MILLS

In 1842, William Makepeace Thackery travelled along the road from Carlow to Leighlin Bridge " which,"he states, "is exceedingly beautiful, noble purple hills rising on either side and the broad silver Barrow flowing thro' rich meadows of that astonishing verdure which is only to be seen in this country. Here and there was a country house or a tall mill by a stream but the latter buildings were for the most part empty and the gaunt windows gaping without glass and their great wheels idle."

These mills (Shackleton's, Lalor's, Thompson's, Green's and MacWey’s—to mention only a few) were built mostly on tributaries and from their number one would conclude that milling was certainly a very prosperous and profitable occupation some time before the great English novelist made his trip. The Barrow Mills, flourishing even then, was the first in Ireland and the second in the British Isles to be converted from the old-fashioned stone mill to the roller process.

THE LIGHTER SIDE

Whatever people may say about the weather nowadays, few can remember a cold spell to equal that of February 1855. We read in the Carlow Post-—-"Though the severe frost of the last week or two has been productive of many inconveniences, it has at the same time been attended with amusement and recreation in various localities, and our river has afforded no slight attraction to all classes, during the last week particularly. Large parties have assembled on it daily to indulge in the exhilarating exercise of skating. Numbers took refreshments on the river, and several gentlemen skated from Milford and several other places in the vicinity to Carlow. The scene was amusing, most exercising, and, whilst its novelty forms no small share of its attractions, as we hear that the Barrow has not been frozen over for the last forty years."

The Carlow Post of May 1870 describes the Annual Boat Procession which took place in connection with the Carlow Rowing Club. Boats of every description passed up the river flaunting their multi-coloured flags in the genial breeze, to the great admiration of the crowd. The main attraction seems to have been the water-velocipede driven by Mr. G. J. Bourke. During the evening the band of the Carlow Rifles played some lively selections and later the sky was illuminated by a display of fireworks.

In 1856 we find mention of a Regatta which must surely have been one of the first in Carlow-—"The day being remarkably fine, the banks were crowded with ladies, who seemed to take a lively interest in the sports of the day. The river itself presented an imposing sight, the brilliant colours in which the contending parties were dressed sparkling here and there through boats full of ladies who cheered them to greater exertion."There was an accident in the Race for the Silver Challenge Cup which resulted in a dispute.- We are told that " The Foleys kept the lead till they came to the turn at the Buoy when the others got inside of them and in going round struck the stern of their boat which has caused much dispute as to whether the prize was fairly won."

The Carlow Horticultural Society, in 1836, held their Autumn display of "Fruits and Flowers" in the Pembroke Fields. Colour mingled with fragrance until the Barrow banks were transformed into another Paradise, although this time under marquees.

The Cricket Club moved their grounds to Clogrennan for a period in the early days and from the smooth green pitch the Barrow could be plainly seen. The matches played there were graced by the presence of the "Rank, beauty and fashion of this and the adjoining counties." Afterwards dinner was served "in the best style" by Mr. Whitmore. Toasts were proposed and speeches delivered before the company retired, usually about ten o'clock.

IMPROVEMENTS

A stroll along the riverside has always been a favourite recreation of Carlovians. Generation after generation have seen the blending shades of green reflected in the golden waters and have listened to the melting melody of countless birds.

Despite Nature's generosity, Mr. Vigors of Erindale, in the Autumn of 1822, spent several thousand pounds in improving the walks through his demesne. He erected alcoves at intervals and added a Chinese Temple for the sole purpose of affording pleasure to others. After all this I find it difficult to forgive certain youthful robbers who were responsible for the disappearance of books and newspapers from this delightful retreat on the banks of the Barrow. Fortunately the delinquents were traced.

In 1861 the Town Commissioners, at the instigation of "many parties" allocated six pounds to the purchase of metal seats, six feet long, at thirty shillings each. These were to be placed in "that part of the promenade beside the Barrow which is within the borough bounds" and no doubt they served a useful purpose for many years thereafter.

 MIGHT-HAVE-BEENS

Leaving aside realities, let us review some of the things that could have happened. In 1822, for example, a suggestion was made to cut a canal from a port in Wicklow to communicate with the Barrow. How this would have affected transportation we can only guess because nothing was done to further the project.

In 1842 the proposal of Mr. Forth, the County Surveyor, to build a bridge on the Barrow, running near the Club House (now St. Brigid's Hospital) and opening opposite the Court House was under consideration. Indeed, the Carlow Sentinel of the August of that year states that "the works will commence immediately." A financial problem arose, however, which proved insurmountable. The Carlow Grand Jury had agreed to cover one-third of the expense (£7,800) and when Leix refused to pay the remainder this useful plan was unfortunately abandoned.

The year 1892 brought with it a threatened cholera epidemic. This danger decided the Town Commissioners to proceed with a piped water supply scheme which had been under consideration since 1880. Up to this the provision of water for the public had been left entirely to nature. This resulted in the rapid spread of many diseases.

The Barrow was suggested as a source of supply and it was proposed to erect a pumping station with a filtration plant and a storage reservoir near Bestfield. The people of Carlow, supported by a local doctor, objected on the grounds of the unfitness of the water for human consumption. They held out firmly and successfully against all opposition. On September the eighth, two years later, the foundation stone of the reservoir was laid at Killeshin.

THE FUTURE

May famous people ever walk along, may historic events ever take place and may progress ever continue, "by the Banks of the Barrow!"

Source: Carloviana Vol. 1. No.7, New Series, Dec 1958. Pages 31-33

© 2001 County Carlow IGP ^TM

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